For the Love of Food..

The city of Mumbai has witnessed an array of phases. Some that persisted and others that faded with time. They are phases that have etched in the memory of every Mumbaikar, be it the times of the British Raaj, the civil riots, the rise of the film industry, the transition from Bombay to Mumbai, the 26^th July downpour or the grand world cup victory. But there is one such phase that has reigned the city for over 100 years now but is a soon vanishing breed; and this is the shining glory of the celebrated Irani Cafes of Mumbai.

A struggling writer, a courting couple, a famed businessman, a weary labourer, a blithe collegian, a budding artist, a taxi driver or just another rover, the Irani Cafés have been a rightful haven for one and all. Savouring the delectable brun maska, Irani chai, khari biscuits, cakes, caramel custard and pulaos, one could just sit back for hours together, unwind and soak in the cozy setting of an Irani Café without a heavy bearing on the pocket.

An absolute rage until the 90’s, Mumbai boasted of over 400 such cafes in the past. Presently the number has descended to a humble ten, marking their alarming extinction.

As the city witnesses the thinning glory of these cafes, one such abode that has served Mumbaikars for over 90 years is the illustrious Britannia & Company Restaurant, popularly known as the Café Britannia.  Set in the commercial district of South Mumbai, Café Britannia is an archetypal Parsi restaurant, pioneered by Mr. Rashid Kohinoor in 1923. The quaint café is presently manned by his son, the 90 year old Mr. Boman Kohinoor and his children.

At 12 noon, on a rather sultry day, the café opens its doors for all. Afshin, (Boman’s elder son) begins the day, lighting a protracted incense stick that renders a mystic yet divine feel to the place marking the day’s commencement. The cash counter flanked by the two gateways to the café is set against the backdrop of a life-size mirror below the sepia tainted picture of the founder. Moderately lit with classic chandeliers and lampshades coupled with lazy antique fans and the bentwood chairs, Café Britannia exuberates the old world charm, evoking memories of vintage Mumbai and its simplicity.

Clad in a cream coloured shirt with beige trousers and thick glasses, seated beside a sophisticated table covered with green checkered cloth, the ever so vivacious Boman Kohinoor takes us through the good old days of Irani Cafes and their journey. As he recollects, “My grand-father landed in India from Iran 140 years ago. He started a roadside tea stall outside the General Post Office in Mumbai. Few years later, he instituted the Kohinoor restaurant in partnership with a friend. When my father grew up, in 1922 he sold the family’s share in the restaurant to set up his own venture and started Café Britannia and Company.”

“The name Britannia” as he elaborates “comprises of the word Britain. During the British Raaj, the government sanctioned only such names for new businesses that were symbolic of the British culture.” Another typical feature of all Irani Cafes is their location on street corners, ensuing due to a Hindu superstition that considered corner premises to be unlucky.

Post the demise of Rashid Kohinoor, Boman stepped into his father’s shoes and took over the business. As for the café’s peculiar ambiance he illustrates, “When my father started this café, it was the one of the plushest restaurants of the city. Japanese carpenters were employed to design the furniture which was made of rosewood. The marble table tops covered with white cloth and exclusive chandeliers added to the grandeur. The place was designed to complement South Bombay’s European architecture. But during World War II, the British commanders forced us to vacate this place, turning it into a military office. Within two years the war ended and we retained the place that had nothing but remnants of destroyed furniture.” The restaurant was revamped again, this time with mediocre furnishings and fixtures.

From serving bland Continental food during the British era to the present day popular Berry Pulao, caramel custard and a range of Parsi and Moghalai dishes, the restaurant prides in its exclusive recipes. “My wife, Bachan Kohinoor worked as a legal advisor with the army and was posted at Iran. It was there she discovered the Berry Pulao and introduced it in our restaurant, which continues to be the signature dish of Britannia”, he recounts. Presently, Boman’s younger son Romin, a chef, who inherited the famous recipes from his mother, mans the kitchen. He states, “These recipes are like family jewels. We could never part with them.”

Manned by seven waiters and seven chefs, the café has always boasted of its supportive staff. From employing Goans to Mangaloreans to the present Bihari and Muslim staff members, the restaurant sure seems like one happy family that believes in presenting utmost respect to its customers.

The crowd at Café Britannia continues to augment as office-goers throng for their lunch- the only time one now gets to savour the delicacies of the restaurant as it operates from a modest 12pm to 4pm. As Kohinoor Senior elaborates, “When I ran this place independently, we started the café at 6:30 am and went on until 10pm. But after my son’s took over, they cut the time short.”

The Irani Cafes have continued to serve countless generations of Mumbai with their authentic cuisine for several years now. But behind the packed premises and the illustrious legacy lies a poignant fact that these cafés would soon close down. In a matter of 4-5 years, Café Britannia would disappear from the limelight, leaving the Mumbaikars to settle for other options. Elaborating on the current decline of Irani Cafes, Boman elucidates, “We have tried our level best to keep the legacy going. The new generation Iranis are very well educated and settled abroad. The restaurant business does not appeal to them as they consider it very laborious and below their dignity. My children too did not wish to take forward our business but I convinced them to keep it going; one of the main reasons why we compromised on the time slot. Now I have only one grandson and he is least interested in the business. So after I pass away, my sons would close down the restaurant and retire.” Amongst the several other reasons cited for the decline, are the increased burden of taxes and the tedious procedures for procurement of licenses. From health tax to VAT to income tax, the heavy taxation is a major deterrent in running the business. “My father paid only Rs. 50 for licensing, in contrast to the Rs. 34,000 I pay today for the same. Also with the inflated prices of raw-materials, it becomes very difficult for a business like ours to survive, as we offer services at nominal rates”, says Boman. The growing apathy amongst the next generation Irani’s and with the advent of globalization, most Irani cafes have been sold out to MNCs or other popular brands or are replaced by malls. The owners prefer to invest the money received in the bargain as fixed deposits with banks and live a secure life.

Ali Irani, the 48 year old owner of another Irani Café- Koolar & Company states, “My son is a pilot and does not wish to inherit the business. As soon as I retire, we would sell the place to an MNC or an independent buyer.”

Over the years, several patrons have aggrieved the loss of Irani cafés. Rakesh Bhatt, a veteran Mumbaikar who was a regular at Britannia, dives into nostalgia as he states, “The time I have spent here with my friends during my formative years of college are indelible. We basked in the Berry Pulao and Raspberry Soda. The taste of the inimitable caramel custard still lingers when it crosses my mind. The balcony tables were our patent quarters. It is truly distressing to see that the café would shut down in a few years. I wonder whether my future generations would ever know what Irani cafés were all about.”

Sipping on their fresh lime sodas, a group of customers at the café express their unwillingness to part with Café Britannia. They say, “The best part about coming to Britannia for lunch is the gracious hospitality. Boman uncle personally takes the orders and makes us feel at home. The staff too is very patient and never urges us to hurry out. We would never want this place to close down. It’s a part of our heritage and must be preserved. ”

While the regulars of the Irani cafes are rooting to save them from extinction, the city’s present younger generation is quite unaware about these legendary cafes. Ayush Rana a collegian says, “I had heard about an Irani Café from my father since he use to spend time there during his college days. But I have never visited one, although I would love to frequent such a place with my friends that is less expensive as compared to the popular coffee shops. But all the Irani cafes today are located mostly in South Mumbai and my college is in the suburb.”

In a world where change is the only constant, people change preferences and move on to accept the new innovations. With the rising number of the current breed of coffee chains and eateries, cafes like Britannia are apprehending their extinction. As we lose a part of the city’s heritage with every closing Irani café, some owners try their level best to keep up the legacy and endow the city with more such classic memories. Offering franchise opportunities or renting space to keen buyers could work out as saviours.

Café Britannia is here to stay for only a few years now. But the infinite reminiscences and emotions associated with the space will be cherished by generations. A business based on sentiments that believes ‘There is no love greater than the love of eating’, Café Britannia & Company always lived up to its affability and is now awaiting only a miracle to save the depleting heritage as are the other remaining Irani cafes.